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Are India Pakistan relations on the mend? Do recurring terrorist
actions in India, including the 30 October 2005 serial blasts in Delhi
prior to Diwali and Id send wrong messages? Are the terrorist outfits
determined to wreck the peace processes? Are they continuing to
brainwash young men, including sophisticated, western educated with
the promise of jannat or heaven and hoors or angelic faces if they
engage in jihad, militancy in the month of Ramzan and convert
themselves as human bombs around the world in important cities, trains
and buses? Is the mullah’s influence increasing or diminishing? Is
Pakistan genuinely curbing terrorists or engaged in deluding the world
by a few captures and some military and police actions to show that
they are serious about the war on terrorism and they are a frontline
State in this war? Is Pakistan’s move for opening the Line of Control
(LoC) in Kashmir just a face saving signal or is it a genuine effort,
alongside more trade routes with India as well as people to people
contacts through exchange of cultural and intellectuals’ visits to
each other’s country? Will the jihadi outfits, whose political
outfits, rule the North West Frontier Province and have a strong
presence in Pakistan’s Parliament be able to undo whatever the
Pakistan Government is trying to achieve by opening up to India? Have
Pakistani terrorist leaders shifted their base to Bangladesh, which is
now the world’s terrorist hub and with the government there turning a
blind eye to the presence of terrorist leaders from Pakistan, India’s
North Eastern States and even South East Asia there? Is it Pakistan’s
secret agenda to work for the Islamisation of the world, while using
the present time as a breathing space for the ultimate objectives?
These are several questions that come to my mind and after a visit to
Pakistan I have tried to discuss some of these issues. Confidence
Building Measures (CBMs) by India and Pakistan have had a positive
impact on the South Asian scenario. From despair to hope - these are
the new signals in 58 years after the two countries became free and
fought three wars. The mullahs, militants and the terrorists may be
breathing fire, but most Pakistanis prefer to ignore them. They may
hold peace in South Asia to some kind of ransom, they may threaten the
rulers of Pakistan, and they may be running the madrassas and churning
out campaigners of hate. Yet there is optimism. The Pakistani rulers
may not be writing them off, but they might be trying hard to contain
them in spite of the many odds they face and India may be at the
receiving end of their activities.
The veneer of courtesy Pakistanis show towards Indians impresses
visiting individuals and groups, as this writer would like to
acknowledge after a recent visit to Pakistan. Their hospitality and
warmth touched our hearts. This is also the Pakistani experience of
Indian warmth and hospitality. They are greatly impressed by the
openness of Indian society; market places, approaching world class
now, and freedom of expression. In this respect, the Pakistanis envy
us. They also envy the great diversity and ethnic variations, which
are full of colour. Not that the Pakistanis do not have regional
diversities of their own, but India to them is kaleidoscopic and
unique.
My brother Colonel R N Khanna, who graduated from the Government
College, Lahore, in 1941, received an invitation from the college to
attend its 140th Anniversary. He asked me, my wife, and our sister to
join him so that after the college celebrations, we could visit our
native place, Pind Dadan Khan as well as Bhakwal, Sharakpur, Mardi
Baha-ud-din and Rawalpindi where my father served as a government
doctor prior to the Independence in 1947.
We left Delhi on 20 March 2005, by Shatabadi Express and travelled
comfortably. We arrived in Amritsar in the afternoon and stayed in a
suite at the Golden Temple Complex. The visit to Harmandar Sahib was a
memorable experience. The Darbar Sahib atmosphere was peaceful, sombre
and relaxing amid bright lights reflecting from the Sarovar from which
the city of Amritsar takes its name. The kirtan or devotional music
was indeed soothing.
We left for the Wagah border the next day. This was an experience of a
lifetime. We completed Indian Immigration formalities at the border on
the Amritsar side and walked across to enter Pakistan. The Indian
porters, who took our bags, were relieved by Pakistanis with smiles,
an indication that we were welcome to their country. There was no
bargaining by the Pakistani porters and they accepted whatever we gave
them with grace. The immigration officer at the Pakistan border was
courteous and offered us a cup of tea. The immigration formalities
were completed while we sat in his office. We took a taxi to the
Gymkhana Club in Lahore where we were informed that there was no
accommodation available. However, the manager telephoned what is
called "The Seven Star Guest House" opposite the Gymkhana Club where
accommodation was provided.
At Lahore, my wife, myself and my sister were invited to dinner hosted
by the Government College Celebration Committee to join my brother. We
met the elite of the city and cordiality was abundant. We went
sightseeing and tasted exotic ethnic food in the well lit Anarkali
Food Bazaar and visited the Gurdwara in the Lahore Fort. We joined the
Langar and requested Gurdwara Bhaiji to do “Ardas” for the welfare of
our family. At the Gurdwara most of the Sewadars were Muslims. They
were courteous. They said they were volunteers in an organization,
which believes that there is only one God.
On the last night of our stay in Lahore, my brother asked the taxi
driver, who was to take us to Islamabad the next day, to show his
driving licence. It came as a shock to us that the driver did not have
a valid licence. He told us that this should cause us no worry because
he will be able to bribe the policeman and take us safely to
Islamabad. This was not acceptable to us, especially in a foreign
land. If at some point there was verification or a road accident, we
could have been detained by the police for questioning for utilizing
the service of an unauthorized driver or cab. I am narrating this
incident to show the attitude of a common man in Pakistan which is no
different than in India about bribing a policeman and getting away
from crime. The owner of the guest house came to our rescue and
advised us to go by a luxury coach to Islamabad and take a taxi in
Islamabad to visit different places.
We left Lahore by coach the next morning. The journey was comfortable
and the roadways well maintained. The attractive hostess kept a steady
flow of refreshments. I had the opportunity to interact with some of
the passengers, including a journalist, who was the daughter of a
retired Rear Admiral in the Pakistan Navy. Her father had attended a
course at the Royal College of Defence Studies in Britain along with
Vice Admiral S K Chand of the Indian Navy, a family friend of ours.
This established a sort of rapport. Incidentally her father had done a
specialist course in Navigation and Aircraft Direction at H M S Dryad
in the UK.
We arrived in Islamabad at 2.30 p.m. on 24 March 2005 and drove
straight to the Royal International Guest House, where the Indian
Naval Adviser to the Indian High Commissioner to Pakistan, (Captain
Ravi Pandit), had arranged accommodation for us. The owner of the
guesthouse, Mr Karim made us feel at home.
Apart from sightseeing and shopping, I went to visit the Islamabad
Golf Club and bought some souvenirs, including a golf cap.
We visited Punja Sahib, the famous gurdwara where Guru Nanak had left
an impression of his palm (Punja) to start a free flow of water for
his devotees. The Sewadars were helpful. They did not let us go to
collect food, but brought it as they said we were elderly people and
their guests and it was their moral duty to serve us. Punja Sahib was
truly serene.
As planned, we hired a taxi to visit Pind Dadan Khan, Mandi Bhau Din
and Bhakwal, (having visited Sharakpur earlier when we were in
Lahore). We had been to school in those places. Most of the places
where we had stayed and the hospitals where my father worked as a
doctor had been modernized, but in the school in Bhakwal, there
appeared to be little change in the classrooms, the Head Master’s
office and the playground, except mats which have been replaced by
chairs and tables. Seeing the seventh, eighth and ninth classrooms
brought back memories of praises and punishment by the teachers in my
days as a schoolboy.
We talked to some people in towns and villages where we had grown up.
We were welcomed warmly by the residents staying close to our original
homes. Their hospitality was typical of villagers in India. They
spread “charpais” for us to sit and offered us “lassi”, nimboo pani
and food. At Pind Dadan Khan, my brother met a classfellow of about 70
years ago. Old memories and affection was relived. The same warmth was
showered on us in Rawalpindi, where my parents had spent two years
before migrating to India and this was an interesting experience.
Although there were many changes in the residential areas, the Rose
Cinema complex in Rawalpindi next to the hospital looked the same as
before and was still screening Hunterwali, a popular film of those
days.
On the last day of our visit, 29 March 2005, I called on Captain Ravi
Pandit who invited the Air Force Adviser to his room in the High
Commission. The Army Adviser, who was a Brigadier, offered to come
over (typical of a Defence Officer), but I felt it was my duty to call
on him in his office.
I had myself been Defence Adviser to the High Commissioner in Nigeria
30 years ago and we had an opportunity to exchange our experiences.
The High Commission’s car with an Indian driver came to fetch me from
the guesthouse. On the way he remarked that Pakistani security or
intelligence was following us, but this appears to be a common
practice. The Naval Adviser told me that there has been a welcome
change and Indian diplomats are breathing somewhat easy.
The same evening we went to a restaurant, but the waiter there refused
to present a bill, saying that we were their guests and it was their
moral duty to do their bit for us. We politely refused the offer and
paid the bill with a generous tip.
The next day, we went to Karachi to meet our friends, Sartaj and
Rizwana, whom we had met in Lagos, Nigeria, where I was posted from
1973 to 1976 as Defence Adviser. They drove us to their large and
luxurious house. I had a desire to visit a museum in Karachi, but we
had little time. Our host’s house was a museum of sorts.
They had collected rare pieces from all over the world, particularly
India (Jodhpur and Jaipur) which they visit frequently and also curios
from China, Bali in Indonesia and Malaysia.
Our Karachi visit was an eye-opener as it has been modernised and
roads are good, shopping centers and malls are quite plush. Prosperity
is evident in Karachi and every second car is a Toyota Corolla.
On 2 April 2005, my wife’s birthday, our hosts lined up a celebration
and they invited their brothers, sisters and cousins to dinner and
laid on a cake cutting ceremony. This was most touching. We left
Karachi on 4 April 2005 by Pakistan International Airlines (PIA)
flight. It was comfortable and the crew took special care of Indian
passengers. My general impressions are summarized below.
Like Hindi there is politeness in Urdu language. For greetings only
Salam Walekum to be replied by Walekum Salam is used, instead of Good
Morning, Good Evening, etc. The word Khuda Hafiaz is used instead of
“God Bless You”.
The Pakistani people have not forgotten their culture and by and large
not taken to the Western way of life. Man in the street wears salwar
and kameez. Very few literate middle aged women use Burka. Young girls
and middle aged women wear elegant salwar and kameez and we did not
see a single girl during the fortnight’s stay in Pakistan, who did not
have a Duppatta.
No student in school or college is allowed to wear jeans and trousers.
However, we were informed that in private parties young girls do use
jeans but do not wear the same in public.
From the elite of Pakistan, I got the impression that Mullahs try to
whip up frenzy and hate campaign in the name of Islam. Their power has
to some extent been curbed by General Musharraf.
The man in the street is not interested in Jammu and Kashmir. People
we met said to us that this is not their problem. It should be left to
the politicians to settle it once for all. However, this should not
come in the way of people to people dealings. Their general remark in
punjabi was Sanu Ki, Kashmir Kinnuu Jaave? Sadi lor hai Roti Kapra aur
Makan (We are not concerned as to whom Kashmir goes we need bread,
clothing and shelter).
General Musharraf evokes a mixed feeling. Some people (mostly upper
middle class) feel that he is the right man for Pakistan and democracy
is hardly suitable for their country. On the other hand, man in the
street remarks that rich are becoming richer and poor the poorer under
Musharraf.
Most Pakistani show their warmth by saying Aap hamare mehman ho, aur
hamara farz hai hum aap ki khatir karen (You are our guests and it is
our duty to look after you).
In conclusion I feel that the Pakistani in general is friendly and is
all for good neighbourly relations, freer travel and easier visits by
their divided families in the two countries. They appreciate that the
two countries have many people speaking the same language, and similar
life style. They also appreciate that the trade between the two
countries would help both countries in particular Pakistan, as India
manufactures most of the items and could supply at very reasonable
prices. At present most of their trade is with China, Korea and Japan.
Lastly, the Mullahs and hot heads try to spoil the atmosphere and are
not for peace between the two countries or around the world.
I also made it a point to gather opinions about terrorism in general
and particularly their attitude towards Jehadi activities in Jammu and
Kashmir through discreet interaction with the people in streets, taxi
drivers, shopkeepers and so on. They feel that the Quran does not
permit terrorism and they are deadly against it. But when it came to
Jammu and Kashmir, almost every one felt that whatever was happening
in there, was a local uprising where freedom fighters were fighting
against the Indian Armed Forces. This is a result of propaganda by the
Pakistan authorities during the last five decades. However, the
intelligentsia felt that terrorism is a worldwide phenomenon and is
prevalent in India, Pakistan,
Jammu and Kashmir, the US, the UK, Indonesia, Malaysia, Israel, Iraq
and so on.
About Musharraf, my hosts felt that there is a welcome change in his
attitude after the 11 September 2001 incident in the US and train and
bus incidents in London. They felt that Pakistan is dependent for its
economic development on the US and he has no choice but to at least
outwardly show that he is taking strict action against the terrorist
organisations.
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